The Smackdown... It's Starting Already

Sorry if you're tired from models-are-skinny-and-people-are-upset posts. There are endless news stories on it and it fascinates me.

Milan has just announced a 'code of conduct' for models.

Speaking at the show, the city official in charge of coordinating the new code of conduct - and promoting the city's fashion industry - said it sent out a clear message that Milan was not prepared to tolerate the exploitation of vulnerable young women with their hearts set on a modelling career. "We will work together with modelling agencies, with the chamber of commerce for fashion and with doctors to ensure that - above all - modelling agencies and stylists do not favour this phenomenon of anorexia." Milan's first woman mayor, Letizia Moratti, has backed the campaign to ban anorexic-looking models. Under Milan's new code, which is due to come into force in time for the next fashion week, in February, models will have to carry a medical certificate showing they are healthy. In addition, younger, school-age models will have to be accompanied by a tutor or guardian.

What are your thoughts? Will this prevent anorexia in impressionable models?

The Skinny on Skinny

The New York Times has an article on the ongoing issue of too-skinny models.

Everyone knows models are too skinny, but it seems that people are making such a fuss that things are actually being done about it. I wouldn't be surprised if strict rules and regulations regarding the health of models were instated this year.

If casting directors have to walk out of the room from nausea after seeing a model, you know there's a problem. Even Jessica Stam is complaining.

I knew a model in LA who was absolutely stunning. She was 6ft tall and couldn't have weighed more than 130lbs. She moved to New York and was told by her agent she had to drop 10lbs.

Hana Soukupova is one of the models who looks especially as if she should be in an article in The National Geographic on famine in The Sudan.

One Of These Pictures Is Lying

This doesn't have anything to do with fashion, although I could easily rail against whatever Mariah Carey is almost wearing in either of these photos. I just wanted to point out that her legs are roughly thirteen inches longer in the photo on the right. Not to mention slimmer. I understand that people have weight fluctuations, but people don't typically have limb-height fluctuations. Unless she's had considerable bone density loss in the last ten years and has begun the aging process with a bang. In which case, she needs to drink more milk. Milk builds strong bones.

Looked Better On The Runway

Once again, Jessica Simpson had tainted a perfectly good dress. This one (Oscar de la Renta, Resort '07) looked so much classier on the runway. She has the wrong hair, makeup and shoes for it. The neon-bright blonde (and distracting flip) and the loud makeup detract from the beauty and airy quality of the dress. On the model it looks soft and fluid. On Jessica Simpson it looks foo-foo/beauty queen-obnoxious. Ms. Simpson should try an understated look from time to time.

And the shoes... the shoes. What was she thinking? They're entirely the wrong era for the dress. When you're wearing a taffeta dress that's covered in red polka dots, you don't need red heels that tie up your calf. It's overkill.

Apologies...

I'm trying to alter the site a bit, and in the mean time I'm experiencing all kinds of technical difficulties. I lost all the info for the blogs I was linked with. If I linked with your blog, please let me know and I'll add you back onto my links list.

Sorry. Hope this all gets back to normal!

xo,
A

Sunset Strip

Jay McCarroll

Project Runway alum Jay McCarroll has been very unproductive in the last few years, sartorially anyway. Finally he's had his debut and has wowed the Marni pants off of just about everyone. McCarroll named Benetton as an inspiration, but perhaps he should've listed Chevron and graphing paper; there were a lot of v-stripes and squares.

Todd Lynn

Why am I getting a Robert Palmer vibe from this Todd Lynn suit?

Danielle Scutt

Call me a goody-goody or a prude, but I don't think I'd wear these pieces. Perhaps Danielle Scutt is more prone to exhibitionism than I am. Or maybe she's just European, and I'm just American. Whatever the reason.

London Fashion Week: TopShop Unique

Lots of jumpers and yellow (I mean jumpers in the American sense), but these were my favorites:

Roland Mouret For Gap, Kate Moss for TopShop

I don't have any details beyond this, but I'm a tad flabbergasted.

Roland Mouret has designed a capsule collection of dresses for GAP UK. The main piece is a fuchsia dress with a dark purple top and black straps.

How have I not heard about this yet? Maybe because it's just for Gap UK? At any rate, I'll be living in the UK as of next week and might have to check this out... despite my boycott of Gap.

There's also a rumor about Mouret doing a television program with Victoria Beckham. Yikes.

The next rumour is that Kate Moss will be designing for TopShop. I'm sure she'll come up with something smashing and I'm glad I'll be there to witness the stuff firsthand. But honestly, I'm getting a little sick of her name. There's too much of a good thing, you know. She's got 14 contracts, does she really need a clothing line?

This is all getting too weird and convoluted for me... what's next? Phoebe Philo for American Eagle? Marni for Mervyn's? Viktor & Rolf for Abercrombie & Fitch? Nothing surprises me anymore.

Double Take

Sass & Bide v. Jeffrey Sebelia

Change Of Plans

Hello Dear Readers...

So last week I posted that I'd be in New York next month. Well, things have changed.

I have just purchased a ticket to London. I'm moving there. Yes, you heard correctly. I opted for England over the East Coast.

It hasn't really sunk in yet. I leave next Tuesday and I suddenly have to pack up all my belongings.

Anyhow, all that to say, if I'm a little slow on the blog updates this week it's because I'm getting ready to cross the pond.

xo,
A

Double Take: Caron and Cardellini

I was looking at some pictures of French film icon Leslie Caron tonight and I couldn't shake the feeling that she reminded me of someone. When I finally placed who it was, I was stunned by the resemblance. See for yourself: Leslie Caron v. Linda Cardellini (Brokeback Mountain). If they're planning a biopic of Caron's life, they've got to cast Cardellini as the title role.

Fashion Flashback

Louis Vuitton FW04 - Verrier SS07

Farmhand-Chic

Julia Dunstall has got the farmhand-chic look down to a tee. As much as I like it on her, I don't think it's wearable for just anyone.

I've seen a lot of suspenders at Fashion Week, and I think they're a little more forgiving and wearable than the whole farmhand shebang.

Mickey Mouse Mode

Caroline Trentini and Marc Jacobs sporting the world's most famous mouse.

Vincent Gallo, Anna Sui, The Brown Bunny II

When asked what he liked about Anna Sui's dresses, Vincent Gallo responded, "They made me feel sad that I’m not in love. Every time I see such a beautiful dress, I think, ‘I wish I had a girlfriend so she could wear that dress.’ ”

Well, gosh. I have too much pride to date Vincent Gallo (I don't want to end up in The Brown Bunny II), but if he offered me an Anna Sui dress, I just might fall in love with him.

It's No Wonder...

It's no wonder people in the fashion world are dying of heart attacks in their twenties. When asked by The Daily what he was eating during Fashion Week, Patrick McDonald replied, "The fashion breakfast of champions is Diet Coke and a cigarette."

That's not to say that I've never had the exact same breakfast. I'm just saying...

The One Dollar Coat

I had a fabulous day yesterday. My best friend, Anje, and I went to an art museum to see an exhibit called The Essence of Line: French Drawings from Ingres to Degas. I (as you know) love all things French, and I love Impressionism, so it was especially lovely to see Degas's dancers up close.

After the museum, Anje and I went to a tiny Louisiana BBQ restaurant that is dirt cheap and has the best comfort food around. After we filled ourselves with ribs and sweet potato pie, we strolled into a hovel of a thrift store next door to the restaurant.

I started pawing through the racks of polyester, sweat-stained items. Suddenly I saw this beautiful, caramelly-shiny leather jacket peaking out at me. I asked the clerk how much it was. She looked it over and said, "Well, it's in pretty good condition..." (which I took took as her excuse to charge me an arm and a leg). "Would it bother you to pay a whole dollar?" she asked. "One dollar??" I blurted. "No, it wouldn't bother me to pay a dollar." As I handed her ten dimes for the gorgeous jacket she said, "I can tell by the way you dress that you know how to shop." (I was wearing my dad's grey shetland wool cardigan, my mom's aqua-colored beret, and a pair of Marc Jacobs jeans I found for $20 at a consignment store.) I think I've found my new favorite hole-in-the-wall: flattery and fashion, all for one dollar.

I debuted the jacket at a show last night. Check out the gold decal and pseudo-epaulet admiral chains on the shoulders. The man with the lovely dreadlocks is my friend Scott, who is consistently the best dressed person everywhere he goes (and makes me feel like a fashion novice).

Re: Comment Issues

I understand that some people are having problems commenting on my blog, and in fact, I'm having trouble commenting on other blogs. I think it's a glitch with Blogger.

A few weeks ago I switched I Hate Generic into Blogger Beta format... supposedly the new, improved version... but now the comments don't always work.

I don't know how to remedy this, and I miss the comments, but please keep reading!

xo,
A

Tory Burch

I'm really sick of 'progressive' designers 'pushing the envelope' by creating totally impractical items that cannot be worn off the runway. It's nice to see new twists on classic, wearable items ... like this calico jumper.

It seems to be a bigger creative task to take on a classic. It's not as challenging, in my mind, to create an avant-garde jersey wrap tunic concoction that (when pinned perfectly in place) looks okay on the runway. It's takes true innovation, and a true desire to make a woman look good, to make a basic jumper look so fresh and young.

Princess Buttercup

I don't know if Erin Fethersone was trying to channel Princess Buttercup, but she did.

L.A.M.B.

You can always count on Gwen Stefani to go above and beyond on concept and color, and she outdid even herself this time. Supposedly Stefani's collection was inspired by Scarface, Rasta, Japan and South America. I definitely saw those references, but I also saw disco and urban/hip hop.

Summary: ankle boots, spats, boyfriend jeans, track suits (of course), wrap dresses (like early Diane von Furstenberg), pointy-toed heels, gold accessories.

Spring Makeup

Because I spent years doing makeup, I instinctually keep my eyes open for makeup inspiration. There were a lot of nude faces on the runways, but I can always count on Anna Sui for beautiful, youthful rosy glow and color.

For this look: Apply even base and set with loose transluscent powder all over. Sweep yellowy-gold shimmer shadow across lid, dab pale gold shimmer in corner of eyes. Dust shimmering rose shadow from crease to brow. Line inner eye with white pencil. Curl lashes and apply two coats mascara. Apply a bold (magenta, fuschia) blush to cheekbones (not apples of cheeks). Dab a matte peach or rose lipstick on, avoiding a cakey or overdone look.

Agyness Deyn at Anna Sui

This is the look she was born for.

RIP Luisel Ramos

Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos died at the age of 22 from anorexia-induced heart failure, two minutes after stepping off the catwalk.

Badgley Mischka

Loads of beautiful fluid gowns, with no clear linear throughline. Still, the boys of Badgley Mischka know what they're good at.

Temperley

Suspenders, straw hats, head scarves, long skinny beads. Fully accessorized outfits with belts, sunglasses, and the new line of bags.

Zac Posen

These dresses look like they should be at Viktor & Rolf, don't they?

Carlos Miele

Kinetic floral and turquoise, reminiscent of Roberto Cavalli. Very beachy.

Matthew Williamson

Coral, turquoise and psychedelic floral filled the runway. Very 1960s/1970s/Studio 54 vibe. Oversized sunglasses and metallic heels. Since Sienna Miller is buddies with Williamson, I wonder if this is what we can expect from her as she moves away from the Edie Sedgwick look?

To be honest, I'm a little worried about this collection because Rachel Zoe was in attendance. I hope she does not get her paws all over these items and ruin them with press oversaturation on the likes of Mischa Barton and Nicole Richie.

Marianne Faithfull Has Cancer

Fashion icon, model and singer Marianne Faithfull announced on Thursday that she has breast cancer. This revelation comes one month before she was supposed to embark on an world tour. The tour will be postponed as she undergoes treatment for the disease.

"I have absolute faith and confidence in my fantastic medical team and of course I will be well again, if not better than ever. Next year's tour, I want to assure fans, will be one big celebration," said Faithfull.

She is 59.

Nanette Lepore, Michael Kors

Michael Kors: Gold, beige, black. Bold belts. More streamlined looks than the frilly/girly looks we've been seeing.

Nanette Lepore: 'Sexy Secretary' with chartreuse, robin's egg blue accents. High-wasited skirts and short shorts.

ANNA SUI!

Anna Sui is up there in my Top Five Designers. This is another show I've been anticipating. Her show was a little out of left field (isn't it always?) compared most of the shows thus far. She went for a pirate-verging-on-bohemian theme. It's strange to see such boho looking looks so soon. It feels like we just left the boho-chic thing. However, Sui added her own, colorful twist that makes it look fresh and exciting. I just hope people don't take this as a green light to pull out their Sienna Miller boho costumes.

The collection features chunky necklaces, babydoll dresses and scarves.

Betsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson is not usually a designer I love, but this collection was adorable. Lots of pincurls, bows, ruffles, lingerie-inspired minidresses, heels and red lips. Looks ranging from Gold Diggers of 1933 to wartime pin up girl.

Narciso Rodriguez

Minimalistic jewel tones (and a breastplate).

Eye Spy: Bangs

Marchesa

Beautiful line... like a big, fluffy bouquet.

AUS Fest: Fashion Week Down Under

Keep in mind that Australian Fashion Week is transseasonal (and their seasons don't match ours anyway). Lots of promising Aussie designers to love, though!

Mad Cortes was a more Fall-like line with conservative black, brown and white (with fishnet stockings!)

Bold, colorful and above the knee at Fashionassassin.

Hot Off The Runway

It doesn't get any hotter-off-the-runway than this. Kirsten Dunst is already in Proenza Schouler from yesterday's show.

Summaries

Monique Lhuillier: The Queen of Dressmaking. Monique avoided trends and stuck with the classics (if it ain't broke, why fix it?) I liked every single dress in this collection. She started with a series of belted cocktail dresses, ranging from bubbled, to New Look, to basic shift. Then came the formal gowns that will most definitely reappear at award shows in a few months. I honestly couldn't pick a favorite.

Derek Lam: Overall I found this collection very boring and struggled to find a few interesting pieces. There were, however, a few beautiful formal gowns towards the end that look like Oscar bait to me.

Chaiken: Royal blue, yellow, fuschia. Straw fedoras. Skinny belts around true waist.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

I'll start by saying that, although I'm confused by the lack of direction, I still like this collection. At times I was seeing little Little House on the Prairie, and at times I was seeing the 1940s. (The pompadoured bang and soft curls paired with a colorful pump recall the early 40s, but the patchwork dresses with ultilitarian boots recall Laura Ingalls... at least as she was depicted on television in the 1970s). The collection overall had a bleak tone to it (lots of browns paired with nude faces), but then he'd surprise me with a yellow, shapeless dress. I don't know what it is about MJ, but I'm unable to dislike even his most inexplicable collections. I can, however, say I absolutely disliked the tacky logo handbags. They seemed more out of place than the yellow dress.

Rockin' The Bob

This girl at Fashion Week is rocking the pink bob like Natalia Vodianova.
(pic by Yvan at FaceHunter)

Eye Spy: Stripes

We're a few days into NYFW and already stripes have made their mark on the runways. They're wide, thin, colorful, neutral, and usually horizontal. Finally a breakaway from the traditional black and white that has been overplayed in 2006.

Eye Spy: Grey Belted Dress

Camilla Staerk and Carolina Herrera

Proenza Schouler!

I love, love, love Proenza Schouler. They always inspire and impress me.

ANYHOW... more Agyness Deyn! More 80s! Teeny, tiny striped, intense-graphic mini-skirts. Cropped blazers. Little Amish hats and Andy Warhol shades... who woulda thunkit?

Luca Luca

Finally we're seeing more familiar faces on the catwalk (Caroline Winberg, Marija Vujovic, Nataliya Gotsii). Bow-belted, empired-waisted minidresses and sweeping floor-length gowns. A-line minis. More coral. Black and white, bold contrast.

Marc Jacobs SS07

Polka dots, stripes and pleats. Billowy Ali Baba pants. Flappers. Layered white and ecru. Silver trenches and grey cardigans.

Luella (Agyness?)

Lots of silver and 80s rock 'n' roll mixed with preppy v-necks. And do I spy Agyness Deyn in Andy Warhol shades and a silver dress with a big bow?

Summaries From Olympus

Lela Rose: Beautiful bold (coral, green, yellows) with a variety of textures; pinafores, smocked and sinched minidresses; high-waisted shorts. Lela streamlined what Spring's all about with this line. Loved it.

DKNY: Royal blue; (ball caps? ugh); trenches, parkas. All very city chic, as is DK's wont. There were a few sundresses to redeem the overwhelming sportiness of the collection.

Costello Tagliapietra: 1970s wraps-inspired. More coral, and lavender.

3.1 Phillip Lim: Simple and loose-fitting white and navy voile.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Diane von Furstenberg!

DVF is one of my favorite designers, and I've been waiting very patiently for this show. She did not disappoint at all, delivering fifty looks with all the expected DVF color and flair, but with a completely evolved collection featuring vibrant prints from python to geometric. There were a variety of sundresses (smocked and tunic), shirtdresses, a Grecian-inspired formal gown and even a pair of basic boyfriend jeans thrown in for good measure. She will not be pigeonholed into being just 'the designer of wrapdresses' and she proved that once and for all with her SS07 collection.

BCBG, Verrier, Gen Art, Nicole Miller

Here are my picks from the shows. I'm relieved to finally see figure-flattering, classically feminine clothing that isn't grey. Verrier is my favorite collection thus far.

(pics courtesy of nymag.com)

Weighty Issues

There have been some interesting occurrences recently regarding the health and weight of models. Too-skinny models have been banned from runways in Madrid.

Excessively skinny fashion models will be barred from a major Madrid fashion show later this month for fear they could send the wrong message to young Spanish girls, local media reported. Madrid's regional government... has vetoed around a third of the models who took part in last year's show because they weigh too little. -Yahoo

Conversely, Vogue Australia has boycotted the MaraJoara show, allegedly for using 'too-fat' models (size 6-8) and its website has refused to cover the show, with no explanation. Here are two pictures of the 'fat' models:

It's a rather interesting contrast with reactions to both 'too-fat' and 'too-skinny' models. Quite frankly, I do think many models are too skinny and I'm sure that images of malnourished models have an adverse effect on impressionable people. I'm also sure that the models at the MaraJoara show aren't 'fat' at all by normal-people standards.

I do, however, think that the thinness of models adds to the exclusivity of the clothing they represent. Part of the allure is the unattainability of both the clothes and the physique. If an average-sized girl strutted down the catwalk in a $10,000 dress, she'd diminish the allure because she would physically look 'normal'. Most models look like freaks of nature and you just have to stare at them. The models at the MaraJoara show look so girl-next-door. There's nothing above-average about them, and therefore, their swimsuits look average. (I'm playing Devil's advocate, for the record.)

Here's my theory: Five hundred years ago, when most plebeian people were malnourished, the elite class (royalty, etc.) were what we would call 'chubby' today. The ideal at that time was a woman with a soft, doughy figure... probably a size 12-14 (US) by today's standards. For the plebeians, this 'doughy' look was unattainable. Today, however, especially in the United States, most people are overweight, even obese. Therefore, the waify look of models is harder to attain and has become the physique of the elite class.

I'm not saying it's right or it's good, but that's the way it's always been. However, there is a problem when a model's tights fall off her as she walks down the runway. Tights are supposed to be tight.

Autumn In New York...

...why does it seem so inviting?

Although I wanted to make it to Fashion Week, I'll be covering the shows from the West Coast (thanks to Yvan and Style.com).

However, it looks as though IHG will be heading east to NYC in early October! I'll be people-watching, shopping, taking pictures, and attending a Bat Mitzvah. Of course, I'll be bringing my trusty vade mecum (i.e. my iBook G4) everywhere, so you can expect a lot of blog updates.

I haven't been to NYC in three years so I intend to make the most of my visit. Who knows, I may just decide to stay.

xo,
A

Behind The Scenes at Olympus

Carmen Hawke and Milla Jovovich

Karen Elson and Liv Tyler

Lily Donaldson, Agyness Deyn and Elise Crombez

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Eye Spy: Coral Everywhere

Jenni Kayne trench, Ruffian trench, Josh Goot dress, A. Herchcovitch femme-cop uniform

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Day Two Summaries

Alice Roi: Beige; 1980s-inspired; boxy-tops; hospital scrubs-like outfits; high waisted skirts.

Karen Walker: Floral calicos; ruffled and puffed tops; high-waists; 1940s-menswear-inspired with spats and oxfords.

Jenni Kayne: California coral, chartreuse and floral; cardigans over mini-jumpers, short shorts; caftans and beach totes.

Alexandre Herchcovitch: African prints and primary colors; aviator shades with cop hats; boots.

Josh Goot: Basic shifts; blazers; soft silver; trenches.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Eye Spy: Sky Blue Short Suit

From Rag & Bone (L) and United Bamboo (R), the sky blue short suit. R&B's look is more feminine and tailored, like city-wear. U.B.'s is more masculine and loose, like Hamptons-wear.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Yigal Azrouel S/S RTW

Summary: Variations on grey; cropped skinny pants; layers and blazers; jersey.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

United Bamboo S/S RTW

Summary: Variations on grey; menswear-inspired; loose-fits; capes.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Toni Maticevski S/S RTW

Summary: Whites, neutrals, metallics; pairing matte and high-sheen fabrics (cotton with satin); minidresses; high femininity without kitsch; draped-effect; the contrast (black, brown) is in the accessories.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

Rag & Bone S/S RTW

Summary: Tiny pinafore dresses; charcoal, eggshell, white, navy, baby blue fabrics and traditional tailoring; no jewelry; high waists.

(pics courtesy of style.com)

The Outfit I Want To Wear

(I've fallen in love with Pedro Garcia shoes. I want every single pair.)

Malini Murjani tote, Vince cardigan, Karl Lagerfeld pants, Pedro Garcia pumps:

(pics courtesy of shopbop)

S/S '07 From Miss Sixty, Anait Bian

Predictable youthful urban-pop denim from Miss Sixty, but unpredictable (inexplicable?) layered black for S/S.

Feminine and bright, light and airy from Anait Bian. What we'd expect for S/S. Note the high-waisted shorts. I predict a lot of high-waisted shorts/pants throughout the week.

(pics courtesy of The Daily)

John Bartlett Does NYC

John Bartlett's S/S '07 menswear kicked off Fashion Week at The Atelier this morning. His line was, as expected, neutral, minimalistic-Ivy League preppy. I mean, really, what else can you expect from a Harvard Sociology major?

(pics courtesy of Telegraph)

Haut Monde Hair

Yvan at Facehunter gets the wonderful opportunity to gallivant around Fashion Week and go to fabulous parties and take pictures of lovely people. I already visit his page daily, but now I'll visit it multiple times a day, checking for updates.

I love these girls he snapped photos of at The Daily party with basic hair and fresh faces. There's something refreshing about women who can look so stunning au naturel faced. The only statement they're making with their appearance is with blunt, long bangs and, in the case of the girl on the right, the Louise Brooks bob. There's nothing trendy or 'of-the-minute' about them, though. The coquettish girl on the left could easily have been plucked from Paris in the mid-sixties. The girl on the right is, obviously, a throwback to the twenties. In other words, these looks are virtually timeless. Learn from the best:

(pics courtesy of the brilliant Yvan at Facehunter)

Let The Games Begin!

Models Daria, Jeisa, Jessica and Irina kick off Fashion Week at parties for Hermés, Chanel and The Daily Fashion Week featuring the MisShapes.

(pics courtesy of The Daily)

Audrey Hepburn in Gap?

I literally just saw the new Gap television ad. Do you know the one I'm talking about? The one in which they took Audrey Hepburns's original, adorable dance scene from Funny Face and played "Back in Black" by AC/DC in the background for the purpose of pushing their new skinny black pant?

When I first saw her face on screen I clasped my hands together and said, "Oh! Funny Face!" but my smile slowly faded as I heard the first four chords of "Back in Black". Then suddenly, ba BOOM... GAP Skinny Black Pants! My first reaction was confusion, and now my reaction has degenerated into all out irritation and disgust.

Apparently Gap "wanted to do something really special to re-launch our skinny black pants and thought who better to showcase them than actress Audrey Hepburn -- an iconic woman famous for dressing with sophistication and classic style."

Am I right in thinking it's a tad sacrilegious to use Audrey Hepburn's image long after her death to sell pants made in South American sweatshops when she spent her life as an ardent supporter of human rights?

Somehow I don't think she'd approve. Therefore, I boycott the Gap and their pants.

The End of the Affair

It's upsetting, but seemingly inevitable, that brilliant designers like Phoebe Philo (formerly of Chloe) and Olivier Theyskens (formerly of Rochas) become 'fashion roadkill'. Although both maintain reputations as (passé) wunderkinds of the fashion world, both designers' stars seem to have fallen.

Read this really interesting article on survival in the fashion world from the New York Times by Cathy Horyn.

(pic courtesy of nytimes.com)

Leopard Skin Pillbox Hat, or Shoes, or Purse, or Dress...

Alessandro Dell’Acqua pumps; Ralph Lauren bag; Lola fedora; Bruno Frisoni heels

In the years of the Prohibition, The Great Gatsby, jazz and flappers, leopard become wildly fashionable due to the roaring economy of the 1920s. Flaunting wealth in opulent leopard skin, fur coats and stoles, diamonds and pearls became commonplace for the elite. It is reflected in photos and artwork from the time like an illustration from 1920, an image of Kay Swift, and an Otto Dix painting from 1927:

Leopard was used on coats, gloves and cloche hats, and some extraordinarily wealthy people even kept leopards for pets.

(fashion pics courtesy of style.com)

Scarlett... Again.

Sorry for the excessive Scarlett Johansson updates. She seems to be everywhere lately and she always dresses well. Here Scarlett channels Dusty Springfield at the L.A. premiere of The Black Dahlia in a little embellished black dress from 2007 Resort by (who else?) Chanel:

Words of Wisdom: Rick Owens

"As the suit gave Marlene Dietrich extra allure, high heels on a guy give him a reckless virility. If there's an icy hauteur to a boxy black suit on a woman, there's a good-natured middle finger to heels on a guy, as if to say, 'I dare you to blink at me, motherf*****.'"

Double Take: Francoise Hardy and Heather Bratton

I just realized how much Francoise and Heather looked alike.

Roland Mouret and Simon Fuller?

I've been hearing some rumors about this for a few days, but now it's official. Roland Mouret has teamed up with Simon Fuller (of Spice Girls fame). My immediate reaction to this announcement is confusion, but I suppose I should have a little faith in a designer that has so consistently impressed me, and wait to see what his new products will be.

Mouret is one of my favorite dress designers and often uses classic shapes while adding his own modern twist of draping or layering with vibrant colors. Not only do they look classic, but they also look better on women with real figures, not supermodels. Rachel Weisz and Scarlett Johansson are fans of his figure-flattering dresses. There are only a relatively small handful of designers whose dresses so consistently flatter the shape of a woman.

Mouret was quoted in Telegraph as saying:

Simon has allowed me the creative freedom to build a new vision of a fashion business and one that is relevant for today and for the future. His business knowledge allows me to look at fashion not just from the catwalk but from any direction.

Olympus Fashion Week

The countdown is winding down to the most exciting day of Fall (for fashion lovers): S/S Olympus Fashion Week. Be sure to check style.com and the OFW website starting Friday for all the latest runway updates. I'll also be updating regularly.

Tara Subkoff for Easy Spirit

Major names teaming up with major brands is a major trend right now. Everyone from Vera Wang to Scarlett Johansson to Tara Jarmon is doing it. Another Tara climbing on the bandwagon is Tara Subkoff of IOC. Subkoff's shoes for Easy Spirt are not cheap (averaging around $300), but they're very pretty and range from flats to pumps to boots. The colors are basic (black, blue, green, red) and the styles are also simple, but have that certain Subkoff je ne sais quoi.

Candy Apple Red

UPDATE: I've had a few people ask me about who made these items, so I'll go ahead and list them left to right: Escada bag, Barbara Bui flats, Balenciaga bag, Blumarine belt, Ferragamo bag, Givenchy heels, Moschino Cheap and Chic heels, Marc Jacobs boots, Noir necklace.

Enjoy!

Gray's Anatomy

People who live in the Pacific Northwest, and specifically around Seattle, know this color all too well during F/W. The Puget Sound, the sky and the seagulls (and a certain TV show set in Seattle) are all gray. Fendi, Stuart Weitzman, Lanvin and Chanel have captured the color in the form of apparel and accessories.

Designer To Know: Lyn Devon

Although well known in the fashion world, Lyn Devon is yet to enter household name territory. She has a resume that includes household names (Ralph Lauren, Zac Posen), a degree in Art History from Brown University, and a bevy of socialite and celebrity fans (Tinsley and Minnie Mortimer, Julia Stiles, Dhani Harrison, Lake Bell). She was recently interviewed by Fashion Weekly Daily and asked about her inspirations and upcoming S/S line:

I grew up in the city; I transferred from Brearley to Trinity for high school, and then at Brown, I started working in the theatre department. For a little while I considered becoming a writer, but I just couldn’t do it. Everything I had went back to sewing, sketching, I always saw things through the lens of design and clothing. I majored in Art History and all of that imagery—Klimt with his patterns and Whistler with the cut on the body, it all brought me back to the female form and clothing. You’re going to see a really feminine ethereal spring collection in a really soft, feminine palette, and you’re going to see a mix of fluid drapery and really soft, architectural form.

For the full article, click here.
(pic courtesy of FWD, Lyn Devon F/W 2006)

No Need To Stirrup The Pants

I've been hearing little tidbits about stirrup pants being 'back'. Last week I heard the Go Fug Yourself girls mention stirrups (albeit unfavorably) on NPR.

Let me make myself clear on the stirrup issue: I do not deny that Julia Stegner looks amazing in stirrups. I do, however, insist that every non-supermodel looks not-amazing in stirrups.

To be honest, I've just about had it with leggings altogether. It took a lot of convincing for me to give leggings and inch, and yes, I did give leggings an inch. Mea culpa. But now they've gone and taken a mile, and to add insult to injury, they've stirruped themselves.

All I ask is that if you happen to pass stirrups in a retail environment, you quickly avert your attention elsewhere, post-haste. If you give stirrups an inch, they'll take a mile, and if you lived in the 1980s, you know what I mean. No need to stir up the shameful past.

Stirrups fooled us once, and as George W. Bush says, "Fool me once, shame on - shame on you. Fool me - you can't get fooled again."

Carrie Moment

Sometimes I wonder what Carrie Bradshaw would be wearing if Sex and The City was still in production. Sometimes this thought brings a tear to my eye because it painfully reminds me of the Sex and The City-shaped hole in my heart.

Black Style Now: From Cab to Kanye

If you're in the New York area, check out this exhibit on the history of black fashion at The Museum of The City of New York, featuring everyone from Cab to Kanye. Organized by Michael Henry Adams and Michael McCollom, it looks to be an interesting and controversial exhibit:

The expectations that Mr. Adams and Mr. McCollom, who are black, said they feel from black audiences... demonstrate the importance of black style, because their history has been largely ignored by mainstream cultural institutions. They also expect greater criticism from black audiences over the inclusion of hip-hop styles that invoke negative stereotypes.

London Sole

Because flats are the easiest, possibly most versatile, footwear, I present London Sole.

Having a variety of flat footwear makes getting dressed a little easier. Not only are flats comfortable, they can also balance an outfit. Wearing a pair of red flats with an otherwise neutral outfit adds spark.
Wearing black flats with an otherwise loud outfit adds simplicity.

Ecclesiastical Law

Sorry for the lack of updates in the last few days. It's been an extraordinarily busy holiday weekend for me that has included: a funeral, a baby shower, a wedding, a BBQ, an Arrested Development season three marathon and hot-tubbing.

I had one odd fashion epiphany this weekend and it happened to occur at the funeral I attended. I don't feel comfortable talking about fashion and funerals because the gravity of one doesn't allow for the levity of the other. Therefore, I will speak only of the importance of well-timed conventional appearance.

Traditional funeral attire is somber, conservative and black, hence the adjective funereal. I typically never dress by convention because I find convention obnoxious and, well, because I'm not a lemming. However, I don't think a funeral is a place to make a fashion statement. And certainly, as I was preparing to go to the funeral, fashion was the last thing on my mind. I simply wore conservative black.

When I arrived, the entire congregation was dressed in somber black, hiding puffy eyes behind dark sunglass. Everyone, that is, except the officiating pastor. He wore a baby blue, short-sleeved Tommy Bahama shirt with khaki pants. His mahogany tan, BriteSmile toothy grin, flamboyant mannerisms and anecdotal platitudes were jarring and distracting. It felt like he was on his way to do stand up in Vegas and had stopped by the church for a dress rehearsal.

I will not assess the pastor's wardrobe based on my personal bias against Tommy Bahama, so I'm simply going to assess his appearance using a Bible verse that he (ironically) read during the service, Ecclesiastes 3:4: "There is a time to weep, and a time to laugh; a time to mourn, and a time to dance." As he read it, I couldn't help but think, There is a time to regard convention; there is a time to avoid conspicuity.

Anatole Broyard wrote in the New York Times, "But do I have to sound so funereal, so pontifically solemn?" To that I say, if you are conducting a funeral, yes. As importantly, should a pastor dress in a funereal, pontifically solemn manner while conducting a funeral? Categorically, emphatically yes.

Jason Wu at Olympus 2007

Look for Jason Wu's designs at Olympus next week.

Scarlett Imitates Christ

Scarlett Johansson is yet again teaming up with Imitation of Christ's Tara Subkoff and this time she'll be off the runway.

"You never know what Tara Subkoff will do next, but you can bet it'll be with some good-looking friends in tow. This season, she's enlisted Woody Allen leading lady—and sometime Imitation of Christ model—Scarlett Johansson to co-design a one-of-a-kind leather jewelry line. S.J. & Tito (Subkoff's nickname) is "inspired by what we both wore as kids," Subkoff says, and will debut on IOC's spring runway." (Style.com)

F/W Staple #2: Black Beret

The second F/W staple, after a black cardigan, is the black beret.
Kate Moss
Lauren Bacall
Joan Blondell
Che Guevara
Claude Monet

Les Perles

A How-To-Wear:

Olivia de Havilland
Rita Hayworth
A faux Louise Brooks
Ava Gardner
Keep your eyes out for Subversive Jewelry for Trovata at NY Fashion Week: